Kota Lama - City of Semarang - Indonesia

Kota Lama - Semarang - Central Java

Our Tour – 15 December 2009

Semarang is a capital city of the Province of the Central Java, the city itself situated at central - north area of Java island and is about 600km from Jakarta to the east and about 1 hour flight or approximately 6 hrs by train from Jakarta. The population is approximately 1.5 millions (info from Wikipedia), since 1993 this city became sisters of Brisbane – Queensland Australia. The elevation in most parts of the city is approximately close to the sea level, the southern area is situated on a scarp which runs from the area called “Candi” to the town of Ungaran and beyond. Most of the areas in Indonesia are humid and this was no exception for Semarang, the humidity in this city is very high.

We went to Semarang on December 2009 to visit my sisters and stay at my sister house for 3 days, yes….I was born in this city so I use to know most the areas in city. However, the situation are very different compared to my childhood period and the time when I was there some 30-35 years ago. That was when I went back in this city continuing my high school education. But the scenery remains unchanged in the area called “Kota Lama” or old city. Most of the buildings built on the Dutch era are still standing; in fact some of the buildings of “Kota Lama” are protected by the government under the heritage laws.

Figure 1 - Map A - Kota Lama an the Seaport

My wife and I decided to explore this Kota Lama by feet in a day light, the sun was bright and strong and so were the heat and the humidity. From my sister’s place we caught a taxi, and approximately 30 minutes later we were already in Kota Lama which is situated at the north toward to the shore. We started at jalan Suprapto where the icon of Kota Lama stands, i.e. the building called “Gereja Blenduk” (pronounced like gheraejae bleundook). I’m not exactly sure how this name would translate in English, but looking at the building with the dome alike feature on her roof top that may be where the name Blenduk came from; and Gereja means Church. Up till now this building still has the same function as it was and is very well maintained. I’m not sure when this building was constructed, some data says this building was completed in 1753 and then underwent for extensive renovation in 1894.

Figure 2 - Map B – Area of Kota Lama - the Gereja Blenduk (A) to Railway Station

Here are the photos of one of the city icons in Kota Lama – Gereja Blenduk.

Figure 3 - Gereja Blenduk from the front-left

Figure 4 - Another picture of Gereja Blenduk

From Gereja Blenduk we walked along the street to the west (approximately 500m) toward to the Bridge of Berok River (see the map B), along the way there are other old buildings which still stands and are occupied. Some of the architecture or roof top designs of the buildings were European and some of it were Chinese style. The one of the building with Chinese roof top style is located just in front of the Gereja Blenduk. The building currently is used as a restaurant by the name of “Ikan Bakar Cianjur” specialising in grilled fish. I’ll come back to tell about this restaurant later.

Back to Berok bridge, the river or canal was used by small vessels to load/unload merchandise goods to and from the warehouse along the river. As you can see in the map A, the river runs up to the seaport of Tanjung Emas. Those activities disappeared long ago and this river can no longer be used as part of a transportation system for Semarang city. Looking at the bridge itself, you can still see the old look of the area. The street lights at the four corners of the bridge are the same style as on the other areas of Kota Lama.

Figure 5 - The Berok Bridge & Corners Street Light

Restaurant

After walking a while along Jl. Suprapto, we couldn’t stand the heat and humidity any longer. My wife was sweating like she just finished with her heavy exercises and I myself feel so muggy all over, so we decided to come back and enter the restaurant (mentioned above) just to cool down a bit.
There is other restaurant located also in front of Gereja Blenduk and just 3 building away to the east of the "Ikan Bakar Cianjur", the name is Restaurant 29 which specialising in a type of kebab or sate (Sate & Gule Kambing). I did not visit this restaurant and so I can not comment on the building occupied by this restaurant or the kebab itself, but friend of mine told me the menu is one of the Semarang's specific favourites foods. He want to comeback again one day said Mr. Bakti Sudaryono. Here I copied the foto of the front look of the Restaurant 29 from "cityguide.kapanlagi.com" below.

Restaurant 29 - courtesy of cityguide.kapanlagi.com

The restaurant “Ikan Bakar Cianjur” is a well known restaurant throughout Java and Bali, but this particular restaurant is a rare occasion. The restaurant occupied the old building built some 230 years ago, and the building is still well maintained makes you feel ‘whaaooo’ being inside of the building. The ornaments, floor tiles, detail of the ceilings and doors seems are all still original. We spoke to the receptionist and asked her permission to take photos inside the building, she kindly let us walk around taking pictures. Here are some photos of the restaurant of “Ikan Bakar Cianjur” at Jl. Suprapto – Semarang.

The roof style on this building it's look to me does not belong to European architecture, I am inclined to say that roof top design more to the Chinese architecture. The height of the ceilings are high above, I think probably around 8 metres high. Anyway, if you planned to visit Semarang or if you haven’t been to this place, I strongly recommend to spare your time to visit.

Figure 6 - The 230 years old building occupied by restaurant "Ikan Bakar Cianjur"

Figure 7 - Picture of restaurant from different angle

Figure 8 - Inside view of the restaurant

Figure 9 - From the front looking onto kitchen area at the back

We were having dinner last night in this restaurant and the menus were really great. After finishing our glass of water and a glass of juice of sirsak and some rest of course, we continue our tour. This time we walked across the road in front of the restaurant and continued walking behind Gereja Blenduk toward to the “Tawang” train station (“Stasiun Kereta Api Tawang”). Along the way we passed the old buildings until we reached the big water catchment before the Tawang train station (see figure 13 below). Not sure what the function of the water catchment is, some say this massive manmade water pond is to contain the flood waters during rainy season of some certain area before being pumped or released to the down stream area. Below some photos we took during our tour.

Figure 10 - Small Park just opposite of the Gereja Blenduk

Figure 11 - Water Painting around Gereja Blenduk

Figure 12 - Paved Road and Street Light around the Water Catchment

Figure 13 - Water Catchment and view surrounding it

Figure 14 - Gereja Blenduk at the background

The view surrounding the area to the Tawang railway station look very classic and contrast compare to the other part of the city. The new street lights are made by copying the original old street light, paving has been used for street floor instead of bitumen. Those combinations of old building, street lights, paved road, make us enjoy walking around in this kota lama.

The downsides are, most of the water drains along the streets are not well maintained causing dirty water trapped in the drain and causing terrible smell, even on the bigger water drain i.e. around the water catchment, the water was so dirty and smelly. We have to hold our breath when passing the blocked water drains, really this was not nice experience we have. Also we couldn't find leaflet containing information about the area, luckily I am still familiar with the area but it will be a bit difficult for someone elses who knows nothing about this precinct.

Seeing the kota lama during our tour, I am led to believe that there has been lot of money spent to make this town becoming tourist attraction. However, the smell on the most area of Kota Lama has ruined the “appetite” for tourist to come back and I think the money became not well spent.

I think this precinct have a high value and can be sold as a tourist attraction, there are interesting objects, the good roads and the nice restaurants (may be more restaurants needed). And may be just a few add on needed i.e. tourist information booklet or leaflet which can be placed in the restaurant and train station, provide a post of tourist information (optional) and of course the smelly water drains that need to be fixed.

Anyone interested to walk around kota lama, we suggested doing it in either morning or in the late afternoon to avoid the sun burn. Hope the smelly water drain will disappeared soon.

Figure 15 - Tawang Railway Station from the other side of Water Catchment

Railway Station

Semarang biggest railway station was declared in 1868 or some 140 years ago and at present is the main railway station for the city, connecting this city to other capital city in Java island i.e. Jakarta, Bandung, Surabaya, Jogyakarta etc. In fact according to some sources this building was also claimed to be the first biggest railway station built in Indonesia.

We planned to catch the train called “Harina” in this station to Bandung on the following day after our visit here. However there are no commuter trains available for this city, instead the city relies on buses and mini buses for inner city transportation or taxis. Here are some photos of Tawang railway station we took during our visit.

Figure 16 - Main building of Semarang biggest railway station

Figure 17 - Left wing of the railway station

Lawang Sewu

The next city’s icon that we wanted to visit is the building that the locals call her “Lawang Sewu” or building with “thousand doors”. As stated by her nickname, obviously this building has so much doors and windows.

From Tawang railway station you can ride becak (three cycle) which will bring you to the west across Berok bridge and then along jalan Bojong (renamed to jalan Pemuda). The Lawang Sewu building is located at the end of jalan Pemuda or some 5 – 6 kilometres from Tawang railway station. However we caught a taxi instead just to cool ourselves down after walking in the heat.

OK, now we went with a tour guide, someone that will take us around and explain the past history of this building. Tariff for a guide was only Rp50 thousand, you can give him a tip if you like.

So here we go a short note of this historic building.

This building built and declared in 1907 and owned by the railway company, but then this property has changed hands to other parties a number of times before it went back to become part of railway’s company asset again. During the WW II, the building was used by Japanese to detain the politicians prisoner of war, where they we tortured and even used for the executions of those prisoners. According to my guide those activities happened on the top floor and at the underground floor, which contained water up to the knees. Lots of people have the impression that this building has become haunted, my guide told me some people who have ability to see the other “world” can communicate with “someone else” living in the building. The underground chamber are becoming the test case for people/individual wanting to experience (usually at night time) and witnesses of those story.

Anyway, no wonder people gave the nickname to this building as “Lawang Sewu”, the corridors on the right and left side of the building on either first and 2nd floor are doors and there are doors as long as you can see. Here some photos we took during our visit.

Figure 18 - The both tower in front of this building was used to place a water tank which obviously been used for supplying water for sinks, toilets, etc

Figure 19 - Left Wing of Lawang Sewu

Figure 20 - One of the corridors of Lawang Sewu

Figure 21 - In the building also found steel climbing staircase which according to our tour guide is the same one as on the Titanic passengers ship sank on the Atlantic ocean

Figure 22 - Wash tables at the back of the building was brought from Amsterdam and still in good condition

Figure 23 - The Brand of the Wash tables above

Figure 24 - I just know that during those year the man urinary similar to today’s one was already been used, but this one is high quality ceramic

Other interesting events
Few times I went back to Semarang and see the city grow. In the past the business activities centralised at around Kota Lama, i.e. at jalan Bojong (Pemuda), and pasar Johar (Johar market), nowadays are shared by other shopping districts i.e. Simpang Lima.

I also found that people of Semarang still very tolerant as it was in the past, always step back and look at the whole picture before taking necessary action. May be this is why aren’t easy to influence the provocative acts to the people of Semarang.

There are also festivals every year including Chinese festival, I haven’t seen these Chinese festival yet but people say it was very big and people enjoying it. The next visit we may arrange our time to coincide with those festivals.

So long, till next time……